February is 'mes de la patria' in the Dominican Republic. The entire month is dedicated to celebrating the history of the country. Unbeknownst to me, yesterday was Dia de la bandera, or Flag Day. I'd had a meeting with the head of the organization I'm volunteering with, and 5 minutes from where I was supposed to be, traffic ground to a halt. I was sitting in a carro publico that was stuck behind a bus for about 15 minutes before the driver said, 'The Park is closed'. Parque Independencia is more or less where the Zona Colonial, the part of Santo Domingo that dates back to the 16th century, begins. Parque Independencia was beautiful in its prime, but now it's a pick-up place for prostitutes once it gets dark.
After going through the tiny side streets in the Zona, my driver dropped me off in the middle of El Conde, the main street and shopping district of the Zona Colonial. I arrived at the Parque after a few blocks, only to be stopped by a gathering of about a hundred people, middle school and high school students. A few vendors handed out flags and in the distance, I heard some sort of marching band. I stepped carefully down the ruined sidewalks to the otherside of the parade--in 4 inch heels, mind you--and then realized I wasn't quite sure where I needed to go. I asked a man in some sort of uniform that led me to believe he would know what the hell he was talking about. As soon as he realized I wasn't Dominican, he stopped listening. I said, very clearly, I thought, that I was looking for the street 16 de Agosto. He didn't seem to understand me, so I just handed him the address. He asked a fruit vendor next to him, and the woman began explaining to me where the street was and the officer jumped right in and said, 'Ella no habla español muy bien'. That is infuriating. No, I don't speak the best Spanish, but I sure as hell know enough to know that you're being rude in front of my face. I'm American but I'm not stupid. Just have some patience! This wasn't the first time that a Dominican decided to just write me off just because I speak Spanish with an accent (wow, it's weird to think of myself as having an accent). If I take a half a second to respond, it's not that I'm stupid, it's only that it takes me a bit to process what you've said. Also, Dominican men mumble like no one's business, so half the time I just haven't heard you.
Between the two officers and the fruit lady, it's decided that it would be best for the officer to lead the poor stupid girl to where she needs to go. The man took me in the very same direction I came from (back through the parade) until he stopped at another vendor to ask him where the address was. The vendor turned to me to explain at which point the officer again said, 'Ella no habla español muy bien'. I was so ready to tell him where to go but I decided it was best to keep my mouth shut. Imagine how I felt when he pointed me down the street, only to for me to find out that I was going in the right direction by myself and was originally only a block or so from where I needed to be. I was absolutely furious when I finally (finally!) arrived to the office, pouring sweat and out of breath. Once things got moving, I calmed down, but I still get mad when I think about it. I'm having one of those weeks where I'm sick of being a foreigner.
Links
Dia de la Bandera from a local newspaper (in Spanish, but can be translated)
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